It was high time I wrote a post about the place I've called my hometown since I was 10. Leon is a city in the North-West of Spain and belongs to the region of Castilla y Leon. It is a magical city that draws visitors from across the world because of its combination of stunning historical architecture and delicious food. The main attraction is the cathedral which is considered one of the most beautiful in Spain, but there's much more to do and see.
Welcome to The Complete Guide to Visiting Leon. Today I'm taking you around my hometown showing you what to do, where to eat and stay.
Leon was founded in the 1st century BC by the Roman legion Legio VI Victrix. In the year 74 AD, the Legio VII Gemina settled in a permanent military camp that was the origin of the city. Its modern name, León, is derived from the city's Latin name Legio. After the Roman Empire collapsed, Leon changed from Muslim to Catholic hands a few times. In 910, the Kingdom of Leon was born. Nowadays it has a population of 126.000. Being a small city, you can walk pretty much everywhere so you don't have to worry about transport.
If you visit Leon in summer you will find lots of pilgrims with scallop shells dangling from their backpacks on their way to Santiago de Compostela. Leon is a very important stop in Camino de Santiago.
WHAT TO DO IN LEON
In Leon you can find a plethora of grand monuments and Catholic heritage. The 13th-century Cathedral takes your breath-away with its soaring towers and margnificent stained-glass windows (vidrieras) which are considered the most beautiful and best preserved in Spain. Other treasures include a silver urn containing the remains of San Froilan, Leon's patron saint, and the magnificent choir stalls. You must also visit the cloister and museum around the corner.
Running from the Cathedral to Santo Domingo Square, you can find the city’s main pedestrian street which is constantly bustling with people: Calle Ancha. It's full or vibrant restaurants, cafés, gourmet shops and a fun nightlife.
Palacio de los Guzmanes and its patio are examples of Renaissance architecture. Nowadays it's the seat of the provincial government of Leon but it admits visitors.
Hostal de San Marcos (a.k.a. Parador de San Marcos) is a former monastery turned hotel thanks to Paradores, a hotel chain run by the Estate that preserves heritage by turning monuments into lodgings. The plateresque exterior is superb decorated with medallions and statues from the 16th century. It's even more beautiful when they light the facade at night. Unfortunately the place is currently closed for renovations, it's expected to open again in March 2020.
Real Basilica de San Isidoro is older than the cathedral. This Romanesque church was founded in 1063 to house the remains of the saint, as well as the remains of other monarchs. Sadly, Napoleon's troops sacked San Isidoro in the early 19th century. Attached to the basilica, the stunning Panteon Real houses royal sarcophagi, beneath a ceiling with some of the finest Romanesque frescos in Spain. They are so spectacular that the place is called the Sixtine Chapel of the Romanesque.
Gaudi designed a few buildings outside Catalonia and Leon is lucky to have two of them. One in Astorga and one in Leon itself. Casa Botines is a neo-Gothic, castle-like building that houses a museum and a recently opened champagne bar called El Modernista. A statue of Gaudí sits on a bench outside admiring his own masterpiece.
Plaza del Grano is a beautiful cobblestone square in the heart of the city that used to be a market. It's a great place to sit outside and have a glass of wine with tapas in summer.
MUSAC (Museum of Contemporary Art of Castilla y León). The museum of comtemporary art stands out because of its colorful facade. The coloured glass was inspired by the pixelisation of a fragment of one of the stained-glass windows in León's cathedral.
Another museum worth visiting is Fundacion Vela Zanetti. His art is unmistakable, featuring strong lines and bold colors. He usually depicted open fields and people working the land.
Discover the origin of Corona beer at Museo de la Emigracion Leonesa. Did you know that one of the most popular beers around the world was originated in Leon? I recommend a visit to the museum to find more about this amazing story.WHERE & WHAT TO EAT IN LEON
Leon has been named Gastronomic Capital of Spain this year for a reason. Leon has a great variety of local dishes like cecina (dry meat), Valdeon cheese or Botillo. The city’s slogan for the competition is ‘Manjar de Reyes’, which means ‘Food of Kings’, giving a nod to the city’s royal history.Leon is one of the few cities in Spain where tapas are free. You can go out for drinks with friends and end up having dinner for free without even realizing. Bars are pretty competitive about offering the best tapas because they know that if tapas are bad or they don't offer them, people won't go there.
BARRIO HÚMEDO & EL CID
These two quartiers are full of bars and restaurants and are packed on weekends. Traditionally, Barrio Humedo (which literally means "Wet Quartier") has been the most popular one but in recent years. El Cid has stepped up the game and become pretty popular too. By night these narrow streets are full of people, it's the most bustling area in town.
Here's a list of my favorite restaurants in Leon.
Read the complete updated guide: Where to Eat in Leon, the Best Restaurants
LAV
In my opinion this is the coolest and most modern restaurant in Leon. The name is an acronym for Laboratorio Alfonso V, and if you pronounce it in Spanish it sounds like "lab", short for laboratory. Read all about it here.
Address: Avenida del Padre Isla 1, Leon
Phone: +34 987 79 81 90
TripAdvisor
EL PATIO
A fairly new addition to El Cid quartier. A cozy little restaurant where the dining area is a library. Food and books, two of my favorite things. More pics and info here.
Address: Plaza Torres de Omana 2, Leon
Phone: +34 987 03 33 55
EL PARADOR DE SAN MARCOS
The place is currently closed for renovations, but I still recommend you read this post about it, you get an idea of what you can find in Paradores all around Spain.
NIMÚ AZOTEAThis is the restaurant we chose to celebrate my birthday a few weeks ago. Read all about it here.
Address: Calle General Lafuente s/n, Leon
Phone: +34 987 79 81 92
TripAdvisor
LA MARY RESTAURANT
Combines traditional food with modern touches. I love the white walls, great light and china that decorate the restaurant.
Address: Plaza Don Gutierre 5, Leon
Phone: +34 987 04 34 47
TripAdvisor
WHERE TO STAY IN LEON
One of the most amazing things about Leon is that you can stay in some of its monuments. I don't think there's a better way to take a stroll through the history of a place.Parador de San Marcos is the only 5* hotel in Leon. It will open its doors again in 2020, date TBD.
Attached to Basilica de San Isidoro you can find Hotel Real Colegiata de San Isidoro.
Alfonso V and Conde Luna are 4* hotels that belong to the same group. They are very close to the Old Town. In Hotel Alfonso V you can eat at LAV and in the rooftop of Conde Luna you can find Nimu Azotea.
NH Plaza Mayor Hotel. It's located in Plaza Mayor, Leon's main square, which was constructed in the 16th century. Every other Saturday there's a Farmer's Market. It's only a few steps from the Cathedral and Barrio Humedo.
Hotel Palacete Colonial is a brand new hotel in Leon's main street, Ordoño II. It's located in a former colonial palace and it's right on the main shopping street.
Camarote Hotel is located on a former hospice. The spectacular building has been refurbished and turned into hotel, restaurant, tapas bar and rooftop. The rooftop called "terraza de las estrellas" offers spectacular views of the cathedral.
WHAT TO WEAR IN LEON
Forget all you've heard about Spanish weather if you go to Leon. It's one of the coldest cities in Spain. Winters are cold and summers mild. Leoneses are famous for having to carry jackets around even in August.For such a small city, Leon has no shortage of things to offer. Coming soon to the blog: Leon: Nearby Places You Must Visit.
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